Building on Traditions in Rockfish Gap

The unmarked dapple-gray pavement of Route 796 forks off from the well-worn blacktop of Rt. 250 West just before the latter rises up and passes over the Blue Ridge Parkway. This weathered country road demands an abrupt downshift in pace. Instead of cruising over the pastoral landscape, travelers find themselves meandering through it. Lush overgrowth obscures a brook to the left; a few wooded driveways emerge discreetly on the right to meet the road. A sign with the familiar text and image denoting a Virginia winery directs traffic onto an equally rustic roadway that appears to end at the base of the mountain backdrop rising ahead. Suddenly, the wooded lots and country homes give way to an open stretch of gently rising hillsides. There, in the shadow of the Rockfish Gap Valley, is Pollak Vineyards.

Its owners David and Margo Pollak understood the power of the view when they searched for their perfect farm. They had experienced that same draw while driving through the wine regions of the West Coast and Europe. To Margo’s chagrin, David would often pause during their travels, pull over, and gaze at the trellised acres of vinifera vines with a yearning eye.

The roots of David’s desire to found his own vineyard were planted over twenty years prior. During the mid-70s he had helped expand vineyards in California’s developing Russian River Valley. Then, in 1981, while working as an executive for DuPont, David formed a small partnership that acquired and rejuvenated a pre-Prohibition era winery in the neglected Carneros District of California. Considered a great risk at the time, today the Bouchaine Winery is credited with developing the Burgundian style of wines for which Carneros is renowned. During the early ‘90s David sold off his interests in California wines and traveled with Margo through the great wine countries of Europe. Those travels intensified David’s desire for a vineyard of his own. When he and Margo returned, they began an intensive six-year pursuit for the ideal location to plant their vines.

After many unsuccessful drives through Ohio, Washington, and California, friends pointed them to Virginia, which was being called the Napa of the East Coast. David and Margo enlisted the aid of veteran consultants Christopher Hill and Michael Shaps to help find something suitable in the Virginia region. The two industry stalwarts directed them to a former organic vegetable farm on the southern base of Afton Mountain. When David and Margo came across the property in 2001 they knew immediately it was worth stopping for.

A picturesque lake and dramatic views of the Blue Ridge greeted them. Testing proved that the property had the unique characteristics ideal for the natural cultivation of grapes. According to geographic vernacular, Pollak sits at the base of a “wind gap,” a dried streambed that previously cut across a mountain range. It is regionally known as Rockfish Gap and provides the vineyard with consistent breezes that prevent rot and disease. The property also contains several microclimates, each with distinct soil composition and variant ambient conditions. These “blocks,” as referenced by the Pollak staff, allow for detailed varietal selection and placement in the vineyard. The attentive focus on the details of the land and vines defines David’s philosophy for his vineyard and seems instilled in every member of the Pollak Vineyards family.

From general manager Nick Dovel to vineyard manager Chris Zwadlo, there is a committed effort to making the best wines possible. When their celebrated Meritage is being blended in the winery, Nick, Chris, the winemakers, and Dave are present. Each worker tastes the wine from its barrel and weighs in on the final makeup of the complex blend.

From the beginning, everyone involved with Pollak has been committed to the best agricultural and winemaking practices. They practice dry farming, a non-irrigated methodology that relies exclusively on rain and seeks to cultivate vigorous vines through natural stressing. It is a risky practice in a region known for its seasonal droughts but the benefit is hearty vines with maturity and depth to their fruit and complexity in the wines.

The trellis system at Pollak is referred to as a Smart (after the Australian doctor who created it) or Ballerina (due to the pirouette shape of the trained vines) trellis. It keeps the vines open, allowing air to dry the grapes. It is a system that exemplifies the understanding of the land and dedication to viticulture characteristic of Pollak.

Just as their setting demands attention, their wines have been widely recognized as some of the finest in the region. In 2010 the Monticello Wine Competition awarded Pollak’s Petit Verdot with their highest distinction, the Monticello Cup. This past year they were awarded “Best Small Winery” at the Riverside International Wine Competition in Riverside, California. 2011 also saw three of their wines earn scores of 93 points by the Beverage Testing Institute in Chicago. This level of acclaim has often been reserved for vineyards several decades into their establishment.

Recently, David modestly acknowledged to the Virginia Wine Gazette that Pollak is no pioneer; “The winemaker pioneers in Virginia figured out what works here and what doesn’t work here in terms of grape varieties. Now we have a chance to take the knowledge of the pioneers from the ‘70s and combine that with some modern winemaking and vineyard techniques and really move ahead in this business.”

Move ahead they will. As a young winery, Pollak has excelled at building upon the experience of older Virginia wineries, refining particular practices and varietals in Virginia to produce world-class wines. David’s early California Carneros success seems to be repeating itself in the Monticello region. Expect Pollak to continue to inspire awe from the roadside and the tableside.